Destination >> Antsiranana - Marcopolo Group

Travelling Antsiranana

Antsiranana, situated in the extreme north of Madagascar, known as Diego Suarez until 1975 and still called Diego by many, is the capital of Madagascar's northernmost province. It has one of the world's most beautiful deep-water harbours, complete with a photogenic sugarloaf mountain. Visitors usually love this city, which is probably the most French city on Madagascar. It has this colonial feel over it. This is the largest city of the north with a huge cosy market, a range of fine restaurants and some fantastic places and national parks to visit nearby. Diego is the perfect place to hang around and prepare for visiting the neighbourhood.

History

Diego Suarez is named after the two Portuguese explorers who “discovered Madagascar, is on the island’s northeastern end. Their names were Diego Diaz and Fernando Suarez who visited Madagascar in 1506. In 1885, the beginning of the French protectorate, the French Navy built a military base. The urban growth followed. In 1942, the Allies launched Operation Ironclad and landed forces at Courrier Bay and Ambararata Bay, just west of Diego Suarez. Hundreds of British soldiers fell in the Battle of Madagascar, most of them buried in the special British cemetery in the centre of town. The cemetery, with its rows of white gravestones, is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. Until 1973, Antsiranana has served as a port to the French fleet of the Indian Ocean. The military awarded lapsed, the port has been transformed into a site of construction and naval repairs. It is one of the largest in the Indian Ocean. The importance of the port and relations with France explain the presence of one of the most developed shipyards in the Indian Ocean.

The legend of Libertalia is said to have its origin here. Libertatia is said to have consisted of a free enclave forged by pirates under the leadership of Captain James Misson in the late 1600s. It is described in the book A General History of the Pyrates by Captain Charles Johnson, an otherwise unknown individual who may have been a pseudonym of Daniel Defoe, though whether or not Libertatia actually existed is disputed and it seems that the whole story could be entirely fabricated.

The story and the legend say that: “Towards the end of the 17th century, a strange community settled in the Bay area and gave birth to the Libertalia Republic. Characters that were closely related to buccaneering: a French pirate named Misson, and a Roman priest, Angelo Caraccioli. They were both inspired by a utopian philosophy based on the freedom of men, religion and races. Libertalia thrived for a few years until the Malagasy, aroused by their chiefs that hardly understood this threat to their authority, attacked Libertalia by surprise and destroyed it”.

~~What to see

The town is the gateway to Montagne d'Ambre and Ankarana national parks, and many visitors simply pass through Antsiranana, careless of its charms. Those with the time to linger and discover the decaying colonial architecture (the old covered market and the former Hotel de la Marine for seafarers are notable examples), the vibrant market and the wealth of crafts workshops will find Diego atmospheric and enjoyable. The old military quarter, north of Place Foch, occupies a peninsula and overlooks the port. A particular pleasure of walking around Diego is the unexpected variety of stunning views over the bay, seemingly around almost every corner.

· * Colonial buildings

The most successful example of colonial architecture is offered by the thread of colonnades of the rue Colbert, which ends in rue Richelieu. By turning left, one discovers an imposing colonial-style residence surrounded by ravenala trees. These are the current headquarters of a territorial administration.

· * The bay and the port

The Bay of Antsiranana is one of largest and most breathtakingly beautiful lagoons in the world. Shaped like a four-petalled flower with a narrow mouth at its eastern tip, it opens into the Indian Ocean. At the southern edge of the bay the so called Sugar Loaf is its fabulous landmark which one can easily photograph by the roadside when approaching the Emerald Sea.

~~ What to see in the sorroundings of Antsiranana

· * Ramena Beach

A day trip to the nearby beach at Ramena is very recommendable. Ramena is a small village with a sandy uncrowded beach, which does not seem to have benefited much from the tourists excepting some hotels and restaurants on the spot. The beach is popular among aging vazahas aging with young Malagasy fee-washing girls.

You can reach the place by bush taxi from Diego. Taking a taxi is inexpensive too. It's a short but bumpy trip of about an hour. Right at the roadside, there are some clusters of baobabs. These are strange-looking trees that look upturned by a divine whim of some sort. Its branches look more like roots. Of the 8 species of these bizarre trees with branches that look more like roots, six are found ONLY in Madagascar. If you drive by taxi, tell your taxi driver to pull over. The pictures will be worth the stop.